Magnetek Power Converter 6612 Manual
305 North Briant Street. Huntington, IN 46750. (219) 356-7101. General Information. Primarily the 6700 Series converts the 120 volt AC power into 12V. Note: During battery replacement observe battery polarity. If the battery polarity is reversed the battery fuse will “blow” on the front panel of the converter.Missing. I am having some problems with my Magnetek power converter. Is z 2006 or7 and the manual said I needed magnetek manual to locate where my. Magnetek 6612 MODEL. MagneTek 6606 6612 schematic. MagneTek 6600 series power converter opwners manual. Log in / Register. Your name or email address: Do you already have an account?
Greetings, I am so desperately seeking advice. I have contacted the RV Manufacturer and they did not offer any help. I recently purchased a 1997 Rockwood Tent Trailer.
It has a Magnetek 6612 Series Converter with Option O. I have spent many hours trying to diagnose an electrical problem, but I am not really patient with this kind of stuff. Do you happen to know if in fact, the 6612 Series Magnetek Converter with Option O has the ability to charge the battery (RV Battery) through the Converter whilst plugged into 110V shoreline. Thanks in advance.
Quote: GreetingsI am so desperately seeking advice. I have contacted the RV Manufacturer and they did not offer any help.
I recently purchased a 1997 Rockwood Tent Trailer. It has a Magnetek 6612 Series Converter with Option O. I have spent many hours trying to diagnose an electrical problem, but I am not really patient with this kind of stuff.
Do you happen to know if in fact, the 6612 Series Magnetek Converter with Option O has the ability to charge the battery (RV Battery) through the Converter whilst plugged into 110V shoreline. Using a meter, check the battery voltage across its terminals with the shore power disconnected. It should be 12 something volts.
Now plug in shore power. (make sure the battery disconnect switch is not made) If there is a charger, the battery voltage across its terminals should be the charging voltage, 13 something. If the battery voltage does not go up as soon as you plug in shore power, then no charger. Regards, Barry. Quote: Using a meter, check the battery voltage across its terminals with the shore power disconnected. It should be 12 something volts. Now plug in shore power.
(make sure the battery disconnect switch is not made) If there is a charger, the battery voltage across its terminals should be the charging voltage, 13 something. If the battery voltage does not go up as soon as you plug in shore power, then no charger. RegardsBarry Thanks Barry, yep, did this and found out that I wasn't getting any voltage at all across the battery terminals (battery pulled out). This then made me think that maybe the charging portion of the converter was bad. I called my rv dealership and all they said was that 'yep' that's the way it works - it should charge the battery - that's when I thought for sure I had a problem with the converter - but was reading on the forums it is sometimes an option on some models of converters - hence the Option O - for which I don't know.
Quote: Using a meter, check the battery voltage across its terminals with the shore power disconnected. It should be 12 something volts. Now plug in shore power. (make sure the battery disconnect switch is not made) If there is a charger, the battery voltage across its terminals should be the charging voltage, 13 something. If the battery voltage does not go up as soon as you plug in shore power, then no charger.
Thanks Barry, yep, did this and found out that I wasn't getting any voltage at all across the battery terminals (battery pulled out). This then made me think that maybe the charging portion of the converter was bad. I called my rv dealership and all they said was that 'yep' that's the way it works - it should charge the battery - that's when I thought for sure I had a problem with the converter - but was reading on the forums it is sometimes an option on some models of converters - hence the Option O - for which I don't know. You lost me on the no voltage at all part.
Here is a link to the 6612 schematic (down the list a ways) Perhaps it reveals if it has a charger. Someone else here will need to confirm that. The link to the linear converter block diagram at top of list is clear it has one, but it is for the 6300. Regards, Barry. Quote: Thanks Barry, yep, did this and found out that I wasn't getting any voltage at all across the battery terminals (battery pulled out). This then made me think that maybe the charging portion of the converter was bad. I called my rv dealership and all they said was that 'yep' that's the way it works - it should charge the battery - that's when I thought for sure I had a problem with the converter - but was reading on the forums it is sometimes an option on some models of converters - hence the Option O - for which I don't know.
You lost me on the no voltage at all part. Here is a link to the 6612 schematic (down the list a ways) Perhaps it reveals if it has a charger.
Someone else here will need to confirm that. The link to the linear converter block diagram at top of list is clear it has one, but it is for the 6300. RegardsBarry Sorry about that. Well, I had the trailer plugged into shore power and the converter switched to AC - this runs everything in the trailer right?
Well, when I bought the trailer, the battery was bad, so I pulled it out. With the battery pulled out, I should be getting somewhere around 12 to 13 volts to the battery cables right? When I put a multimeter to the cables, there was 0Volts - which made me think that I either have no charger or the converter was pooched.
Quote: Sorry about that. Well, I had the trailer plugged into shore power and the converter switched to AC - this runs everything in the trailer right? Well, when I bought the trailer, the battery was bad, so I pulled it out. With the battery pulled out, I should be getting somewhere around 12 to 13 volts to the battery cables right? On my 7355 with shore power plugged in and battery cables removed from batteries, the meter still reads 13.71 across the cables, so the charger is on.
I understand that the old linear converters require the battery to be in to filter the DC as indicated in the block diagram for the 6300. Filtered DC is needed for the electronics in the fridge, etc AFAIK.
(which isn't much). Quote:Sorry about that. Well, I had the trailer plugged into shore power and the converter switched to AC - this runs everything in the trailer right? Well, when I bought the trailer, the battery was bad, so I pulled it out.
Magnetek Converter Model 80
With the battery pulled out, I should be getting somewhere around 12 to 13 volts to the battery cables right? Not necessarily. The converter may produce no voltage if the battery is disconnected. Redo the test as Barry first described, with the battery connected.
There was a discussion of this here very recently. Google for the thread. Using a meter, check the battery voltage across its terminals with the shore power disconnected. It should be 12 something volts. Now plug in shore power. (make sure the battery disconnect switch is not made) If there is a charger, the battery voltage across its terminals should be the charging voltage, 13 something.
If the battery voltage does not go up as soon as you plug in shore power, then no charger. Thanks Barry, yep, did this and found out that I wasn't getting any voltage at all across the battery terminals (battery pulled out). This then made me think that maybe the charging portion of the converter was bad. I called my rv dealership and all they said was that 'yep' that's the way it works - it should charge the battery - that's when I thought for sure I had a problem with the converter - but was reading on the forums it is sometimes an option on some models of converters - hence the Option O - for which I don't know. You lost me on the no voltage at all part. Here is a link to the 6612 schematic (down the list a ways) Perhaps it reveals if it has a charger.
Someone else here will need to confirm that. The link to the linear converter block diagram at top of list is clear it has one, but it is for the 6300. RegardsBarry Looked at the schematic, and that is about the most basic converter it's possible to have - a transformer, diode bridge rectifier, and a manual switch to select whether the dc loads are powered by the dc from the battery or the dc from the rectified ac.
No charging section at all, so you wouldn't see anything at the battery terminals coming from the converter when plugged into ac. Of course, 'option O' may add a charging section, but it isn't indicated on the schematic. Ok, I am so very confused right now - I just can't seem to figure this darn thing out.
I found out the battery was bad on the tent trailer. I bought a brand new deep cell battery and connected it to the battery terminals on the tent trailer. But I still did not have lights on the trailer. So I went inside and checked all my connections. On the back of the converter, there are two blue wires to supply positive power to the DC appliances. There is also a red which connects to the positive of the battery.
Then there is a series of white wires for ground. I tested each of the blue wires with my multimeter by holding the positive to the blue and the negative to a ground point on the trailer. Both of the blue wires had around 12.xx volts coming out of them - which made me think that I am getting power out of the converter. I also checked the fuses and both are good. I then thought it might be a ground issue and checked all my connections. What even puzzles me more.
The previous owner wired in a 12v lighter socket adapter to power 12 volt appliances or to charge a cell phone. There is 12.xx volts to this, but not to the lights or water pump. At this point I was totally confused. I checked the block (white little holes in plastic with a tiny.where a positive and negative wire into for 12v appliances - but there was no power there either or coming throught the wires. I was ready to light a match to it at this point, but then thought just for the heck of it, I hooked up my trickle charger (used for charging motorcycle batteries) to the battery and terminals to supply the trailer - darn, still nothing although there is around 12 - 13 volts being supplied by the trickle charger. Then, I disconnected the battery and plugged the trickle charger straight up to the wire terminals (no battery) and voila, I had power to the lights.
I am so confused - this means that all the wiring in the trailer must be good, it is just the plain old battery supplying the 12v to the trailer that isn't working - PLEASE HELP!!!! Ok, I am so very confused right now - I just can't seem to figure this darn thing out. I found out the battery was bad on the tent trailer. I bought a brand new deep cell battery and connected it to the battery terminals on the tent trailer. But I still did not have lights on the trailer. So I went inside and checked all my connections.
On the back of the converter, there are two blue wires to supply positive power to the DC appliances. There is also a red which connects to the positive of the battery. Then there is a series of white wires for ground. I tested each of the blue wires with my multimeter by holding the positive to the blue and the negative to a ground point on the trailer. Both of the blue wires had around 12.xx volts coming out of them - which made me think that I am getting power out of the converter. I also checked the fuses and both are good.
I then thought it might be a ground issue and checked all my connections. What even puzzles me more. The previous owner wired in a 12v lighter socket adapter to power 12 volt appliances or to charge a cell phone. There is 12.xx volts to this, but not to the lights or water pump. At this point I was totally confused. I checked the block (white little holes in plastic with a tiny.where a positive and negative wire into for 12v appliances - but there was no power there either or coming throught the wires.
I was ready to light a match to it at this point, but then thought just for the heck of it, I hooked up my trickle charger (used for charging motorcycle batteries) to the battery and terminals to supply the trailer - darn, still nothing although there is around 12 - 13 volts being supplied by the trickle charger. Then, I disconnected the battery and plugged the trickle charger straight up to the wire terminals (no battery) and voila, I had power to the lights. I am so confused - this means that all the wiring in the trailer must be good, it is just the plain old battery supplying the 12v to the trailer that isn't working - PLEASE HELP!!!! I don't intend on acting like a smart ass over this but you have me confused also. Example; 'I found out the battery was bad on the tent trailer. I bought a brand new deep cell battery and connected it to the battery terminals on the tent trailer.'
'it is just the plain old battery supplying the 12v to the trailer that isn't working ' Go review this and see if it will help. Just Me & DOG. Quote: battery and plugged the trickle charger straight up to the wire terminals (no battery) and voila, I had power to the lights. I am so confused - this means that all the wiring in the trailer must be goodit is just the plain old battery supplying the 12v to the trailer that isn't working - PLEASE HELP!!!! First there is the manual switch that is in the 6612 schematic. You mentioned selecting AC. What does that mean??
If it is thrown to get 12v from the converter then is the battery not thus disconnected? Do you get DC lights etc when there is no shore power and that switch is made to get DC from the battery?
If so all is well. You need your own battery charger (smart charger is best) as a separate item. When you have shore power you can easily charge up your battery as required. If you get DC up the battery terminal wires so the lights etc work, is that with the switch made to battery?
If not then this is indeed screwy. What's the deal with this manual switch? If you get 12v from the terminal wires off the trickle charger ok, but not when the battery itself is on those wires, and the battery is good, does this mean you simply have a bad connection at the battery terminals but the clamps from the charger to the terminal wires makes a good connection? Regards, Barry.
Well, I did it again in my attempt to explain what was happening and ended up being more confusing than good - so here is my attempt at being a little more clear. Bought tent trailer 2. Tried to run lights off of existing battery with Converter switch on to DC or 12v power (I have 3 settings - DC Current, Off, and AC or 110V power) 3. Didn't work 4.
Had old battery load tested and found out battery was pooched 5. Tried to figure out if my converter is a converter/charger - found out no it is not. OK - bought new battery in meantime 7. Installed new battery and made sure converter switch was on dc current - still no lights 8.
Checked wires coming from converter and they are all outputting 12v - so I know this is good. Put trickle charger on with battery installed - still no lights 10. Took battery out and connected trickle charger to cables and voila - lights work. So in response to Barry, you basically sum it all up in your last paragraph I don't know what else to try! Quote: First there is the manual switch that is in the 6612 schematic.
You mentioned selecting AC. What does that mean?? If it is thrown to get 12v from the converter then is the battery not thus disconnected? Do you get DC lights etc when there is no shore power and that switch is made to get DC from the battery? If so all is well. You need your own battery charger (smart charger is best) as a separate item.
When you have shore power you can easily charge up your battery as required. If you get DC up the battery terminal wires so the lights etc work, is that with the switch made to battery? If not then this is indeed screwy. What's the deal with this manual switch?
If you get 12v from the terminal wires off the trickle charger ok, but not when the battery itself is on those wires, and the battery is good, does this mean you simply have a bad connection at the battery terminals but the clamps from the charger to the terminal wires makes a good connection? RegardsBarry. - so I know this is good. Put trickle charger on with battery installed - still no lights 10. Took battery out and connected trickle charger to cables and voila - lights work. So in response to Barry, you basically sum it all up in your last paragraph I don't know what else to try!
Ours has two sets of battery cables, two wires per post with an extra wire or two spliced in to one set that carries the parasitic loads like the LP gas alarm. AFAIK one set is from the cord that plugs into the tow vehicle and the other is the 'real ' battery cable set. One time when I had the batteries out, when I put them back nothing worked. Turned out I had gotten the two connecters on one post stacked wrong so they weren't flat to each other, so there was a bad connection.
When you had it working with the trickle charger clamps on the battery terminal wires but then when the trickle charging current wasn't getting through with the battery connected, it indicates that the break is at the battery post connection. Maybe try the lights with the battery connected and the tow vehicle plugged in. See if you get lights with only the 'real' battery wires on the battery and the towing cord wires removed. Take out the RV battery and put in your vehicle battery just to see if it works and then that would mean your new RV battery has a bad post.
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When the trickle charger was clamped to the terminal wires and it all worked, was there any part of the terminal wires left dangling that go to the battery that was by-passed where the clamps were farther up? That might be where there is a break is in the wire on the end. Can't really tell without being there. Seems to me you are doing things right and will find it eventually, but it sure is frustrating isn't it? RVing is fun if you don't weaken! Regards, Barry.
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Magnetek Power Converter 6612 Manual
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Power up the drive. The drive will display parameter U1-02, 'Output Frequency' on line one. Press the up arrow key until the keypad displays 'U1' on line one and 'Monitor' on line two. Press the key labeled data/enter. The drive displays parameter U1-01, 'Frequency' on line one. Press the up arrow key until parameter U1-14, 'Flash ID' is displayed on line one. Read and record the value displayed on line two of the display.
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