S10 V8 Motor Mount Template
S10 V8 Conversion Mounts
Welcome to the Chevy Nova Forum. If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post. Nov 7, 2010 - Page 2- S10 smallblock swap Tech Questions - Monson Racing. I run the plates with V8 clamshell mounts in my '97 S10. They are stronger than the modified 2.8 mounts. They also have the. S10dragracer.com Yes, weld a plate and use what ever motor mounts you want. Cross member (stock) will work. LS Engine swaps are getting easier with three different types of LS Engine Motor Mounts.
Hello all.thank you for helping with yet another question. I'm putting a 350sbc with a turbo 400 into a S-10 chassis with a 48 5-window (you can see the build at under 3k). The S-10 chassis originally had the 2.2 (4 cylinder) engine and I was hoping to get some suggestions on what motor mounts to use. I expect to cut the firewall and tunnel for the tranny. S10V8.com sells a convesion kit for $73.95. I was wondering if this is the way to go or if I should just fabricate something.etc, etc. Thanks again for your help and ALL input is appreciated.
I would go with the S10V8 mounts or the JTR version. You can also get the Ebay version for a little cheaper. I bought some Ebay ones. I have a couple friends using them, and they are holding up fine. Nothing more than a template, some fabrication and somem good paint. Since your motor was a 2.2, you'll have to get the 2.8 V6 motor/frame mounts. They're like $30 tops at Napa for a pair.
Pretty much any S10 that did not come with the 2.8 will need the 2.8 mounts. At least from my understanding. I had a 2.5 in mine. Last edited by MNRatRod; at 10:33 PM. The kit from S10V8 comes with the 2.8 frame mounts and the engine mounts for $73.95 ($28 of which is for the 2.8 frame mounts). I was hoping someone had plans for farbricating these.
There's a web site that will sell you cab mounts to put your AD on an S-10 chassis for $495. I cut the original S-10 rear mounts for the front and fabricated new rear mounts out of square tubing and 3/16 plate for $20. Sure their's are a little prettier than mine, but at a savings of $475 I can handle ugly. Anyway, trying to stay under $3k and every dollar counts. If I can't find help with fabricating these mounts I'll pay out the $75 for the store bought ones. Thanks again to everyone on this site for your patience with me and my questions.
I have a V-8 S-10 (87 long bed 383 stroker/TH-350) no issues what so ever with the TransDapt mounts, 2.8 stock mounts, and Hedman S-10 headers. No way those mounts will work in a S-10/AD conversion. I tried, the motor was going to be way too far forward. I ended up using some mid sixties Chevy motor mounts bolted to the block and then attached to some solid mounts welded to the frame.
With that setup I still had to weld a plate on the passenger side of the cross member so the mounts could go a little farther back. The rear of my valve covers are approx 2' from the firewall.
One of the most popular ways to fit an LS motor in place of a first generation small block or big block is to make a set of adapter plates that bolt to the side of the block that accept regular small block Chevy motor mounts. These plates are easy to make out of steel plate – all you need is a chop saw and a drill. There’s a couple different designs floating around out there that locate the motor in different places. What we’ve done here is create downloadable PDF files based on the measurements for the LS and traditional small block mounting holes, to make it easy to get your measurements right.
Here’s how to use them:. Select the template that best fits your installation needs.
Download the PDF file. Print it on letter size paper. Delta milwaukee band saw serial number. Make sure to set the size option to actual size. Cut out the template and tape it to a piece of 1/4″ steel plate. (They’re designed for 4″ wide material.). Use a center punch to mark the hole centers. Cut the plate to length with a chop saw or Sawzall.
How To Make Motor Mounts
Drill out the holes to the diameter marked. (0.5625″ = 9/16″.) Some may need to be countersunk or tapped; this is noted on the drawing. Paint the adapter plate powder coat as desired. One thing to keep in mind with LS swaps is that the LS motor has the bellhousing flange lined up flush with the driver’s side cylinder head. The original small block Chevy has the bellhousing flange roughly an inch behind the cylinder heads. So, if your vehicle has tight clearance from the firewall to the engine, and you go with a mount that is said to put the engine in the stock location, you may have the engine hit the firewall.
Keeping the bellhousing flange in the stock location when going from a Gen 1 small block Chevy to an LS motor is, effectively, putting 1″ of engine setback in your car. We’ll be adding new templates as our LS swapped truck project comes along. First up is our short adapter.
Make Your Own Motor Mounts
This one would move the bellhousing flange forward by approximately 3″ when swapping from a small block Chevy, unless you use a second adapter plate at the bottom of the mount, or modify the engine stands on the crossmember. On some applications with tall engine stands, such as ’63-’72 trucks using stock small block engine stands, the stands may need modification to clear the exhaust manifolds, as this puts the stands back much further than a normal small block Chevy. The advantage this has is that the motor mount more or less in the same position relative to the block as factory LS mounts, allowing you to keep the low mounted A/C compressor found on the truck LS motors, assuming it will clear your frame rails or front subframe. You’ll need two identical copies of this one, one for each side.
These are designed so the right side of the template goes to the front of the block. We plan to put up more downloadable templates as time allows, including a solutions for mounting the engine with the bellhousing in the stock location.